San Telmo

Arts, antiques and tango in the old town



Noteworthy for: Plaza Dorrego is the heart of San Telmo. Here you’ll find the focal point of the Sunday flea market and the weekly milonga, a stunning visual treat - or dance, if you’re brave enough.

Word to the wise: The Mercado San Telmo is home to a daily fresh fruit and vegetable market, which is a great find if you're self-catering.

This is the Buenos Aires of days gone by. Walking along the cobbled streets - surrounded by its rich history, the overflowing stalls of antiques, belle époque cafes and tango dancers swishing around the leafy square - you will feel like you have stepped back in time, if only there were slightly fewer tourists there with you.

This is the oldest part of Buenos Aires, and while it was once a wealthy barrio, the rich moved to Recoleta when the yellow fever struck, leaving the beautiful art nouveau houses to the immigrants and workers. This all adds to San Telmo’s atmosphere of faded glory, partisan yet pretty, both ramshackle and grand, with a timeless charm.

You’ll find backpackers and students in the grungy bars and hostels, workers going about their day, as well as camera-snapping tourists.


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